Today In Palestine
Recent Background of the Old City in Brief
The Old City of Jerusalem is located between the modern cities of West (Jewish) Jerusalem and East (Arab) Jerusalem. The ancient Old City has traditionally been split into 4 quarters: Jewish, Armenian, Christian and Muslim. In the 19th century, the growing population of Jerusalem- particularly in the densely populated Jewish and Muslim quarters- began spilling out beyond the city walls leading to the creation of the modern cities of West/East Jerusalem. In 1917, the British Army captured Jerusalem from the Turks, who had ruled the city since the early 16th century. From 1917-1947 the British controlled Jerusalem, as part of the British Mandate of Palestine. However, rising tensions between Arabs and Jews in the Mandate, as well as an increasingly vicious guerrilla war waged between British forces and Jewish militias, created a tenuous position for the British, who eventually decided to quit the Mandate in 1947. The United Nations was charged with coming up with a solution to the Palestine problem, issuing a Partition Plan that provided for an Israeli and Palestinian state with Jerusalem becoming an “international zone”. However, in the wars immediately preceding and following the establishment of the State of Israel in 1948, Israeli and Arab forces fought for control over the Old City. Ultimately, the Jordanian Arab Legion- the most effective Arab force, trained and equipped by the British- succeeded in establishing Jordanian sovereignty over the Old City. For the next 19 years the Old City was a sort of fortress/no mans land between Israeli West Jerusalem and Jordanian East Jerusalem. During the 6-Day War of 1967, however, Israeli forces took the Old City- along with East Jerusalem and all of the West Bank- from Jordan. Since then, Israel has continued to occupy and administer the Old City. It remains one of the central obstacles to achieving peace between Israelis and Palestinians.
The Muslim Quarter
The Muslim and Jewish Quarters have traditionally been the most residential and therefore densely populated quarters of the Old City. The Christian and Armenian Quarters house mostly foreign monks, nuns, pilgrims and priests who administer and maintain the many Churches and seminaries located there. The Jewish Quarter isn’t much to look at as most of it was rebuilt in recent decades following its destruction during the fighting in 1948 and by the Jordanians in the following years. However, with its bustling markets and twisting alleys, the Muslim Quarter has retained much of its original character. Walking around the Muslim Quarter was the first time I’ve really felt out of place while here. You can feel immediately upon entering the Muslim Quarter that you aren’t in Israel anymore. Despite that West Jerusalem (or the Jewish quarter for that matter) is a stones throw away, you feel like you are in a very different world. So, welcome to Palestine.
This sign says that the person living in this building has performed the Hajj to Mecca
You see jewelry stores all over the Muslim Quarter. I asked a passerby why there are so many stores selling jewelry and he told me that people here invest their money in gold because of how often the political regime and currency changes (Turkish, British, Jordanian and Israeli in less than 100 years)
Mixed Signals
Damascus Gate- the largest gate in the Old City, leads to East Jerusalem
Israeli border police stationed outside Damascus gate- A less than subtle reminder to the Palestinians about who is in charge
I’ve heard that investing in jewellery is popular in other countries that have a history of instability. Another reason is that if you have to flee suddenly, your wealth is easily accessible to bring with you.